San Rafael Swell Trip

San Rafael Swell

One Great Trip

October 4, 5, 6, 2013

By Jerry Smith

Day 1

Several Grand Mesa Jeep Club members had been looking forward to the San Rafael Swell trip since it was announced in the early spring. This trip has been run many times in the past, and has always been considered a favorite.

The San Rafael Swell showing her "teeth"

With trails with names like; The Devils Racetrack, The Eva Conover Trail, Black Dragon Canyon, North and South Coal Canyons, how can you go wrong?

Trip leader Dave McCollough led the way from Fruita to Green River where we all fueled up and then continued to our designated camping area.

Home Sweet Camp

Marty adding his touches to camping

 Exiting Interstate 70 at mile marker 131, ominous signs read; “Roads may be impassable due to storms”. With several storms having passed through the area in the last 2 to 3 weeks, we expected some trail damage to add some “flavor” to our trip.

After erecting camp, we all piled in our rigs for the first “short trip” as it was already getting late in the afternoon.

Three Fingers Canyon is within the San Rafael Reef WSA

Back down Interstate 70 we exited at mile marker 147 where we crossed under the interstate headed south to Three Fingers Canyon. This was an unplanned trip segment.

 The Grand Mesa Jeep Club headed for 3-Fingers Canyon

This road takes you south and east of the eastern edge of the San Rafael Swell. Seeing the “Swell” from here is quite an awesome site. Rather than lift straight up out of the ground like most mesas do, the San Rafael Swell raises up out of the ground at an angle. This site is quite spectacular, though very uncommon.

Looking into Three Fingers Canyon

Several small and medium-size canyons have been worn by wind and water over millions of years to expose what's behind the angled sandstone walls. The Fremont Indians occupied some of these canyons.

Pools of water in Three Fingers Canyon

As was common, the Fremont Indians left behind some evidence of their occupation of the area by leaving “rock art” for our perusal. No one knows for sure what this rock art says, but it is always interesting to hear the various suggestions as to the meaning of these ancient pictures.

Ancient "Rock Art" in Three-Fingers Canyon

After the short hike back into Three Fingers Canyon, we returned to the trailhead for Black Dragon Canyon.

The view looking out of Three Fingers Canyon

Black Dragon Canyon empties into a wash just a short way north of the I 70 Highway.  Even so, you don’t know you’re entering it until the last few feet.

Seemingly from nowhere, the canyon mouth appears and seems to draw you inside the very deep, narrow, and ominous 450 ft. walls.  Vehicles ahead disappear from view as the Black Dragon swallows them around a giant alcove bend into who knows what.

Black Dragon Canyon "Swallowing" members of the Grand Mesa Jeep Club

Nearly 1/2 mile from the entrance to Black Dragon Canyon you come upon a pictograph panel. A pictograph of the Dragon can be seen along this wall.  This pictograph is somewhat ominous in character and adds to the mystique of the canyon.

Black Dragon Canyon "Rock Art"

More Black Dragon Canyon "Rock Art"

On a trip through Black Dragon Canyon a few years earlier, the trail was relatively easy going. On this trip, it was clear from the start that the trail had changed dramatically into one with many challenging obstacles caused by water erosion.

Some of these obstacles required much more time for our eight vehicles to negotiate, and soon we found ourselves wondering if we would make it back to camp before dark.

Marty showing a little "struggling" in Black Dragon Canyon

Roger showing the correct "Line"

Ron pulling cable for choosing the "wrong line"

As the sun was slowly sinking into the west, we came to an intersection that would take us by Sinkhole Reservoir where we would meet up with the road from Buckhorn Draw through Lockhart wash and back to camp.

As we entered camp, the sun had already disappeared and the temperature was dropping dramatically. Luckily, there was no wind.

Marty demonstrating the "3-Wheel technique" to cross a deep Black Dragon Canyon wash

After what for most was a quick supper, we all gathered around the campfire for warmth and camaraderie.

Many tales of harrowing adventures past were offered as we soaked up the welcoming heat from the fire. Somehow, campfires seem to bring out the best stories in people.

Leaving the campfire, we stepped into the darkness and found that the nip in the air had frosted the sides of tents and cooled our sleeping bags to below freezing. After a few shivers, everyone warmed into a relaxed nights sleep.

San Rafael Swell

Day 2

Saturday morning, the sun's warming light finally hit camp at about 8 AM. The night before we had decided be on the trail by 8:30 AM. At about 8:15 we discovered that Roger was still in his sleeping bag so some raucous rousting was in order. Needless to say, we were on the trail at the appointed time.

Backtracking out to the interstate, we found no new participants awaiting our arrival and proceeded west on the highway heading for the Eva Conover trail.

The Eva Conover Trail giving "The Finger" to those who would dare to experience her treasured holdings.

Not long after the beginning of the Eva Conover Trail, it was apparent that the storms over the past few weeks had eroded this trail into a quite challenging condition. What was normally a fairly mild trail from the mesa top down into South Coal Wash had changed considerably.

The Eva Conover trail showing off her rough side and the softer beautiful side of why you would want to enter this incredible wonderland.

Having some “real obstacles” where none were expected slowed progress some, so we entered South Coal Wash a little later than planned.

The trip down South Coal Wash to and up North Coal Wash did not take long.  The two washes are quite wide and have a mostly flat sandy bottom.  Coming into and leaving the washes can slow you down, but we made-up a little of the lost time.

The Grand Mesa Jeep Club on some Eva Conover shelf road

Sid’s Mountain Wilderness Study Area (WSA) surrounded us while driving the Eva Conover trail, South, and North Coal Washes.  It will also be on both sides of the Devil’s Race Track until we begin dropping into the bottom near I 70.

Cody evading large rocks on the Eva Conover trail "in the mirror"

The BLM marks these roads / trails on maps of the area as “Routes Open to OHVs”.  In other words, they don’t qualify as a road or trail if and when the area ever comes up for a vote in congress as to whether it will become a Designated Wilderness.  ROUTE CLOSED!  Wasn't it a great one?

Could this be a window into our trail riding future?  "An Empty View"

This is why we, of the motorized recreation ilk, must be ever vigilant.  We must be pressuring our elected leaders in Washington DC to enact legislation that spells out a true definition of “Road”, “Primitive Road”, “Motorized Trail”, and “Non-Mechanized Trail”.

Once we pass that legislation, we then must pressure the BLM and USFS to re-study each road and trail (both in and out of their inventories) and inside and outside of their “Roadless Areas” and WSAs.  Otherwise, we will again be losing more of our favorite trails to permanent closure.

Mother Nature's "Cock Roach Spire"

Lunch in North Coal Wash included a hike to a mine site north of the wash.  After the hike, we loaded up and drove a short distance to the turn-off to the Devil’s Race Track.

Ruxton showing the heights he will go to

A small taste of "Fall Colors" in North Coal Wash

Entering the Devil’s Race Track, you get the feeling almost immediately that this could be a long trip back.  You start out driving up a wash bottom about 50 yards only to take some sharp switchbacks to a ridge top where the rocks become large and difficult to climb over or around. 

More of "Nature's Art" (Wind and Weed Drawings)

The “Devil” may race on this trail, but if you are a mere mortal in a Jeep, you might want to take it slow and careful.  It’s a long way to town from here if you break.

The Grand Mesa Jeep Club entering The Devil's Race Track

The recent weather had definitely impacted the trail.  Deep wash crossings and other erosion had increased much of the difficulty.  For most of us, the difficulty was welcomed.  But the CB had several comments about some dragging and bumping taking place.

Amy getting the "Automatic Reject Feature" on the Devil's Race Track

Many "derogatory remarks" were made about how to handle the amoeba brains it takes to destroy carsonite signs.  Merry Christmas wasn't one.

Nearing the saddle that peaked the highest elevation we would cross, tail gunner Cody informed Jerry that his right rear shock absorber had broken free of the axle.

Rumor has it this is "Joe & his Dog", I thought it was a Squirrel 

After some inspection, it was determined that the shock mount had split into two pieces and would be out of commission for the rest of this trip.

An Arch along the Devil's Race Track

Slipper Arch in North Coal Wash from the saddle at the top of the Devil's Race Track.  What a view!

We informed the front contingent of our group of the problem and told them to proceed while we attempted to remove the shock, (“attempted” being the optimal word).  The upper mounting bolts had rusted in place and wouldn’t budge.

Cozmo showing Dave how to come off a ledge while Pam is losing her head hoping Dave won't follow Cozmo's lead.

Failing the removal of the shock, we decided to tie it up as much as possible and limp out on the three remaining.

Pam's bottom getting lower than the Jeep's.  Body english is always important when spotting on the Devil's Race Track.

Not too long from there, we passed Dutchman Arch.  From there you can clearly see traffic on I 70, but you can’t get there directly.  There are some decisions to be made at this point.

Roger Crawling the Slick Rock on the Devil's Race Track

You can go south and under I 70 and turn east; or turn east and follow a dirt road by Locomotive Point where there are some Pictographs.  We chose the latter.  It was a good choice.

With LS Chevy power and 37s, Chuck made the Devil's Race Track look rather mild going.

These Pictographs are slightly different from others.  Clearly, snakes and other shapes not often seen are strongly represented here.  Also, the pigments used are still vibrant and nearly jump off the wall at you.

Ancient "Rock Art" speaks volumes... we just don't know what it says.

A short way from the wall was another uncommon sight.  A large dome of cactus is growing away from the main path to the wall.  Marty says that when these bloom, it is quite the exhibition.

An unusual Cactus Dome

After about another half hour of “fast driving” on frontage roads, we entered camp just as the light was fading and the temperature was dropping.

Cody leaving Locomotive Point

Mary had offered to make dinner for the three bachelors in the group, and trust this writer; she knows how to satisfy a hungry bachelor.  Our folding chair “thrones” were occupied by some very grateful "Kings" as we sat around the campfire feasting on that wonderful delight.  Many, many thanks to Mary.

The campfire became a major source of interest Saturday evening.  It was destined to provide the heat to bake several large potatoes over night to be used as a community breakfast entrée the next morning.

San Rafael Swell

Day 3

This breakfast had been in the works since the Beef Basin trip two weeks prior.  We had planned to bake the potatoes in the coals of our fire over night and have some bacon and eggs with them.

The potato experiment was nearly a bust.  Some of the potatoes were only half-cooked.  Luckily, they were large and there was more than enough to go around.  Add a little butter, sour cream, plenty of bacon, and scrambled eggs, and we had a great Sunday morning “wake-up”.

With a little more practice, the baking of potatoes in campfire coals overnight will become an easy chore and likely become a tradition on our overnight trips.  This club “Rocks” in more ways than just Jeeping.

The San Rafael Bridge over the San Rafael River

After a very satisfying breakfast, some of us broke camp as we were not going to return after the days’ “Jeeping” the San Rafael Swell.  Not long after, we were on the road to the San Rafael Bridge.

The older historic bridge still hangs over the river next to the newer two-lane bridge.  The signs tell some of the history behind the old San Rafael Bridge and quite a bit of time was spent walking around the area.

The Emery County road is bordered on both sides by WSA

One project I have been working on for some time has to do with documenting areas and trails that contain older roads and trails that have been closed long ago and are now part of a WSA, “Roadless Area”, or other entity that disallows motorized recreation.  The San Rafael Swell holds such “debatable” roads and trails.

Why is a vehicular gate needed to close a "non-road"?

This "natural cut" is not a road.  What else would it be?

One of these “non-roads” is located just feet from the San Rafael Bridge.  Actually, the road begins there and in about 14-miles ends with a vehicular gate and large rocks blocking what the BLM has “decided” is not a road.

The "Non-road" continues on into the distance

They are so convinced this isn’t a road, that they were able to name this area the Mexican Mountain Wilderness Study Area (WSA).  This “Roadless Area” is a prime example of the lack of honor that the “Preservationist” wing of “Land Management” exhibit whenever they “Study” an area for “Wilderness Characteristics”.

In fairness, there are some "roads" within the WSA that might not meet the definition of a "Road"... but how many hundred years will this scar remain? Has man "Trammeled" here?  Hmmmm?

It has never ceased to amaze me that ANYONE cannot recognize a road when they see it… especially one that is wide enough for two full-size vehicles to pass at a reasonable speed from opposing directions. 

A “Road” that has 30 to 40 foot cuts into the hillside that were obviously built by and maintained by heavy equipment.   A road that was obviously built with a destination in mind and was an extension of a County Road that is currently being maintained as a County Road even though both sides of this County Road are WSAs for several miles.

In fact, this county road is purposely being maintained as a way to block the BLM from turning this whole area into a WSA.  The county recognizes the economic value of having motorized access to this area and is thwarting the attempt by Preservationists to change that.

Today, this road had mega erosion damage from all the recent rains.  We would just barely get some speed up when a deep watercourse cutting across the road would require a serious slow-down.  The lower side of the road was often left with very deep “Vs” cut into to the road.

Needless to say, driving the 14-miles took much longer than it would normally, not to mention the added gas use due to all the start/stop driving.

One of the water courses causing severe slowing.

Arriving at the gate, I took pictures of it and walked nearly ½ mile taking more photos to show the “non-road”.  Trust me when I say that anyone who cannot recognize this as a “ROAD” is a legitimate idiot.  He/she wouldn't recognize their own mother.

On the way back to the San Rafael Bridge we encountered a man standing beside the road waving wildly for assistance.  It seems that he and some friends had been camped off the road in an inconspicuous place and their trucks battery had died two days ago.

A nice view of the San Rafael River and Bottleneck in the background.

They had been waiting for two-days for someone to come along.  Yes, this is a remote part of the world.  After rendering assistance, we continued up the road.

Low on fuel, we turned onto the Buckhorn Road and headed north past the Buckhorn Wash Rock Art Panel where the others had headed when we split-off.  Finally, we reached the “T” with a sign saying the highway was only 30-miles to the east.

There appear to be "Bears" near the Buck Horn Pictograph

That was the longest 30-miles of backcountry road ever driven.  The gas gauge kept dropping until the low-fuel light and warning made their point.  Shortly, we stopped to add a 5-gallon can of gas to the main tank.

That’s when we discovered that the previously reliable gas siphon pump was no longer reliable.  Oh well, the spout would still work… until I broke the plastic extension off the end of it inside the fueling hose on the Jeep tank.

After some fishing, we retrieved the plastic extension and finished the fueling.

In Green River, we added more fuel and a burger-to-go before driving the 90-miles back to Grand Junction.

This turned out to be one mighty fun 3-day trip into the San Rafael Swell.  Between the time on the trails, the camaraderie with good friends, and the superb meals, it just doesn’t get any better… unless you recall:

When you come to a fork in the road… take it!  Your adventure is just beginning.

Many Happy Trails to you.

Copyright Happy Trails 4wd 2013.  All rights reserved.